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Fencing for a Compost Pile

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Fencing for a Compost Pile

Fencing for a Compost Pile. Containing your compost pile to a fenced area isn't a requirement; you can simply pile the organic material in a large pile in your yard, if you choose. However, the pile tends to look messy and doesn't mature at the same rate because the outer edges slope unevenly. Fencing for your compost pile doesn't have to be...

Containing your compost pile to a fenced area isn't a requirement; you can simply pile the organic material in a large pile in your yard, if you choose. However, the pile tends to look messy and doesn't mature at the same rate because the outer edges slope unevenly. Fencing for your compost pile doesn't have to be complicated; making a simple cylinder out of wire fencing might be sufficient.
Size
Compost matures best when the pile is large enough to create the right amount of heat in the center. However, it needs to be small enough that you can turn it regularly without too much trouble. If you're making a square fenced area, it should be at least 3 feet wide by 3 feet tall by 3 feet deep. For a cylinder fence, a diameter and height of 4 to 5 feet is usually sufficient.
Quick and Easy
A cylinder compost fence is the easiest and fastest to make. Use wide-mesh wire fencing such as chicken wire and cut it to the desired size with tin snips. Stand it on the ground and wrap it in a large cylinder, securing the ends with wire clips or zip ties. Although you can turn the compost inside the fence, it's often easier to unclip the front of the cylinder, peel the fence away and reassemble it beside the existing compost pile. Turn the pile in place, and then reload it into the cylinder's new location. Instead of using wire, you can also use snow fence, which has spaced wooden slats connected by wire.
More Permanent Fencing
If you're seeking a more permanent compost pile option, use wood or concrete blocks to construct the fence. Sinking four wooden posts in the corners allows you to nail or staple snow fencing, wire fencing or wooden slats between the posts. Hinging the front section creates a door to allow for easier turning. Pressure-treated wood lasts longer than basic lumber, but don't use lumber treated with chemicals like creosote or pentachlorophenol that can leach into your compost. To use concrete blocks, leave a few inches of space between each block in a row while stacking; there's no need to use mortar because the weight of the blocks is usually sufficient to keep them in place. With concrete block fencing, create three sides, leaving the front open for easy turning.
Considerations
Airflow is an important piece of proper composting. When choosing a material for fencing, make sure it has openings to allow air to flow into the compost pile to assist with decomposition. If using wood, for example, don't nail boards with the sides touching; leave at least 2 to 3 inches of open space between the slats. That's also why you stack concrete blocks with space in between. Water is another key element. Your compost fencing should be near a water source -- within reach of your garden hose, for example -- but not located in a depression in your yard where water stands after rain. Too much water can cause mold to develop or make decomposition happen too quickly, ruining your compost.

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